Jane Rapley 采访录 - 伦敦艺术大学中央圣马丁艺术与设计学院前院长 （现任天麟海外艺术创意启发中心荣誉学术总监）
伦敦艺术大学授权广州招生代表处 | 2013-04-03
伦敦艺术大学中央圣马丁艺术与设计学院前院长
（现任天麟海外艺术创意启发中心荣誉学术总监）
Jane Rapley 采访录
中央圣马丁艺术和设计学院是享誉设计的顶级设计学院，坐落于伦敦市中心，该学院拥有得天独厚的时尚文化底蕴。提供的课程也十分广泛，包括服装，纺织品设计，纯美术，平面设计，产品设计，建筑和表演等。并以其充满创造力的学生，教职员工和毕业生世界闻名，引领着世界潮流。
我们伦敦艺术大学授权广州招生代表处办公室非常荣幸地请来了中央圣马丁的前院长 Jane Rapley OBE, 给有志于申请中央圣马丁艺术与设计学院的学子们指点迷津。以下是我们的访谈录：
1. As we know,
众所周知，伦敦艺术大学包括中央圣马丁以其对作品集的高要求而著称。您能就如何准备一个好的作品集，给申请本科及硕士学位课程的中国学生们一点建议吗？
The basic principles are that portfolio can demonstrate their creative skills. The portfolio is different slightly depends on which sort of subject they want to study. For example, if you are going to study product design, we want to see you have a good 3D sense. The portfolio shows your understanding of materials and the way you think is quite logical and analytical. If we are looking at textile portfolio, we would want to see you have very strong sense of color, texture and materials. You love the stuff you touch. If you are going to do print-textile, you should draw well and have a good pattern sense.
关于作品集，最基本的原则是要能展示学生的创作技巧，而申请不同的科目所要准备的作品集也略有不同。打个比方，如果你想申请产品设计，那么我们就想从你的作品集里看到较好的三维立体展示。作品集除了要体现学生对于材料的理解，还要看他们的思维方式是否合乎逻辑分析。例如我们在看纺织品设计的作品集时，我们会希望看到学生在运用色彩、质地及材料方面的能力，学生深深喜爱他们触摸的材料。而如果你想要申请的是纺织品印刷专业，那么你必须展示你的绘画功底以及对各种图案图样的理解能力。
For womenswear it is competitive and popular, you need to demonstrate you have a view about fashion. You have whole point of the world. You got to demonstrate you think about things in a broad sense and aware what is happening in the world. Particularly it is an advantage if you can draw well. In your drawing, you demonstrate your understanding of the body, you understand why you are making certain shapes. You are not about decorating because in the end fashion is about culture and 3D form. It is not the flat thing. It is actually about body, body’s move. Good color, sense of fabric and idea! Ideas are not just about copying famous designers. Ideas are about to demonstrate you are getting ideas from wide sources.
对于女装设计专业，申请的学生很多，所以竞争也非常大，学生需要在作品集里面表达自己对时尚的理解，以及对于国际时尚业的见解，学生的想法里要包含一定的国际观，也需要知道国际时尚圈发生了什么事。当然，如果绘画功底很不错，这样也会对申请加分。学生需要在绘画里表达自己对于人体的理解，要明白为什么要设计制作这些特定形状。学生要知道，服装的作用并不仅仅是修饰，更重要的是体现文化和三维立体的形式，因为服装并不是平面的，它是要穿在身上的，而身体是会活动的。好的色彩，面料的运用，创新的想法，都是服装设计必不可少的。而想法并不是复制有名的设计师的设计就可以，而是需要从广泛的信息来源中获取。
Generally in the portfolio it demonstrate your imagination, it shows your ideas. You have options and have personal view about things you are looking at, personal view about how you solve the problem.
总的来说，作品集最重要的是体现你的想象力，表达你自己的想法。这里面要体现你对于事物的个人看法，以及你解决问题的方式。
For postgraduate portfolio, by time we expect to see the very personal portfolio. We do not expect to see something general. By that time, we expect you to be quite clear why you want to go to the postgraduate course, what you want to do, what is your ambitiousness. We expect to see much more personal ideas. Being individual. Particularly in fashion design, the applicants need to demonstrate they understand the world. They are talking about what is happening in fashion.
对于申请硕士研究生的作品集，我们最希望能从作品集里看到学生最个性化的一面，而不是一些综合的笼统介绍。我们希望学生能非常清晰自己为什么要申请硕士课程，最想要做的是什么，未来的目标是什么，我们想看到的是很个性化的东西。尤其是在服装设计方面，学生能表达自己的世界观，了解国际时尚圈的动态。
Undergraduate portfolio can demonstrate your ability to develop concepts, your ability to work with a range of material, processes and techniques. You are not relying on the course; you do something well and put more into it. You have to be interested.
申请本科课程的作品集，我们更看重的是学生的各方面能力，从设计最初的理念，到着手选材、规划步骤、材料处理技巧等等，学生不能只想着能从课程里学到什么，而是要找到自己感兴趣并做的好的方向，然后投入更多精力更深入地去研究。
2. How can the students stand out from the other applicants in the interview?
学生要怎么从众多的面试申请者中突围而出呢？
They have got to be themselves. We are not looking for one type of personality. What they need to do in interview is to listen to the questions and think and use opportunities to demonstrate themselves, also be prepared to ask questions themselves. To have enough conversation, be enough confident, well appear to be confident. You learn how to deal with the situation. Not to be overconfident. Try to be calm. Be sure that you answer the questions. Do not simply answer the question Yes or No, you should talk more. You deliver the way that you are. Moreover, you should know how to use the questions and said what you want to say. You need to use the situation and give rich information about yourself you can.
学生要很好地展示自己。我们并不是在找特定的某一类学生，所以学生在面试的时候，一定要听清楚问题，然后仔细思考，抓住机会来表现自己，然后也要抓紧机会发问。面试中要多与面试官交谈，要有足够的自信，至少表现出来要非常自信，但绝不能自傲。还有就是要冷静，要确保自己不是答非所问。回答问题的时候也不要简单的说“是”或“不是”，而是要说的深入一点，表达清楚自己的想法和见解。最重要的是，要懂得怎么结合问题来表达自己的想法，要懂得运用不同的情景来展示自我。
3. Do the students get high stress in CSM? What do you suggest Chinese students should do to deal with this kind of situation?
在中央圣马丁学习的压力会很大吗？您能建议一下中国学生应如何处理压力过大的情况吗？
Firstly, I want to say the students should choose the course right for them. CSM is not suited for everyone. You choose the stage that you are. You have found your ambitiousness.
首先，我要说的是，学生必须选择适合自己的课程。中央圣马丁并不适合所有人。你要选对自己的舞台，找对自己的目标。
Secondly, it is possible that their expectation is too high. Look at the reality. It is quite competitive and challenging. Because of a lot of investment, family expect too high. If you go to somewhere that you think it is the famous course, you are the brilliant one. Suddenly you find there are thousands of you in the community. You are not the big fish anymore.
其次，有可能是期望值太高。要懂得面对现实，因为这是很激烈的竞争和很大的挑战，而家长大量的经济投入，也可能导致对学生过高的期望。有些学生认为自己进的是最有名的课程，自己也很拔尖，突然间发现，身边的人全都和自己一样的突出，自己不再是最拔尖的那个。
Thus, make friends by trying not with the other Chinese students but with ones across areas. Help each other, because that helps homesick. University has a lot of support, find out and use them.
因此，中国学生不应该仅限于跟其他中国学生交朋友，而是要尽量与其他国家地区的学生交朋友，再有就是学生之间要互相帮助，这样在学校也更有家的感觉。当然，学校也有提供一系列的帮助，学生要学会找到有关服务并正确的使用。
4. What are the important factors for the art and design students?
对于学习艺术设计的学生来说，最重要的因素是什么？
l Be hungry to take into information. 要有饥渴的求知欲。
l Be greedy. Be sponge everything, to have strong personal view. 要像海绵一样贪婪地吸收各种信息，要建立强烈的个人观点。
l Be totally curious, and to ask questions. 时刻保持好奇心，多想多问。
l To do more, look widely, research more experimentally. 刻苦研究，开拓自己的眼界，多做实验。
l To have some view about the world, have broad sense of not only what is happening in one subject, but in the world. 建立广阔的世界观，不能局限于某一方面。
l To handle the situation, emotion and problems by themselves. 要学会独立处理突发事件及情绪问题。
l Be creative. What was so rich in Galliano’s imagination? He was fascinated by different parts of the world, different cultures, decoration, materials, history and so forth. He worked and worked. He spent much time in the libraries and museums, sponge everything, all go into his hands. 时刻谨记创新。为什么Galliano的想象力那么丰富？就是因为他无时无刻不被这个世界吸引着，不同的文化、装饰、材料、历史等等方面，他不辞劳苦，花费大量的时间在图书馆和博物馆，吸收着各种知识，应用于创作。